I finally had a breakdown on Thursday... It just all hit me the moment I turned in this spanish quiz and KNEW I had failed it. On top of feeling extremely and utterly stupid, we had just had a TON of homework assigned for the next week. I had also been feeling trapped in my house since the moment we got here with all the homework we had to do, and I wanted to go out and do something fun, but I didn't know where or how to do it! So I had a freak out to Tyler online, who tried to help me calm down but you know how unreasonable girls can be when they're freaking out... I just didn't want to be stuck here on my bed forever doing homework when all I really wanted to do was to be out and DOING stuff and LIVING in the culture rather than reading about it in a book! Eventually I talked to Livey and she suggested having a date that night, out to dinner and dessert. The moment she said it I immediately calmed down, wiped the makeup stains off of my face, and went and ate food, of course. :)
Our date starts out with us walking to this restaurant Liveys sister recommended to us, which ended up being perfect! We get quesadillas and soup, and order some margaritas, which turned out to be rather strong, so by the end of the meal I was feeling pretty good! The ceiling was open so we could see the moon and the stars and there was a band playing and I was just WAITING for people to get up and dance! But they didnt... sad. Next we walk to the Zocalo, and decide to do a lap, which basically means walking around the outside of it and try not to notice all the stares, continually having to say, "No gracias" to all the people walking around trying to sell us stuff, and watching all the kids run around with balloons and light-up toys. We get to this group gathered around one of those human statue things, and suddenly I feel someone squeeze my sides and go, "Boo!" I simply look around. Olivia screams. We both turn and what do we see behind us? A clown. With bright orange hair, a painted face, and huge shoes. But he is a very friendly clown, as clowns should be, and we start laughing and then talking to him. We soon find out that he is a clown learning english, so we get to hear him practice. "Hallo! I practice thee eenglish, whar you from?" and so we begin a long conversation that ends up with these words, "You want to learn salsa? I teach you." And suddenly the clown is grabbing my hand and teaching me how to dance, right there in the middle of the Zocalo. Livey shrinks away, embarassed. People are staring, as they usually are, so I think, what the hell, they're gonna stare even if I DON'T dance and humor the clown. So I'm laughing and the clown is leading me and I'm afraid his huge feet are gonna step on mine, but surprisingly they don't. And I can see some mexican boys looking at us, smirking... I'm sure they were thinking, "Oh jeez, look at that gringa dancing with the clown. Typical. Why does the clown get all the action?" Or something along those lines. "Livey!" I call. She looks at me. "Why don't you come dance with us?" I say, smiling. She shoots me a straignt, "No." and shakes her head. Somehow I get the clown to let me go, and we start talking some more.
"You 'ave boyfriends?" the clown asks.
"Yes." We both say, though in actuality, Livey is lying.
"Wall, eet es hokay, because here in Mexico, cheating is okay! Hey you, woman (he grabs this womans arm thats walking past), It's okay to cheat? (In spanish)" The woman just waves her hand at him. "Yoo see? Es okay!"
"Noooo..." We both say, laughing.
"Wall, I marry yoo. Yoo be my wife." He says to me, chuckling. "I lofe you." Eventually we persuade our new friend to let us get on with our night, and he pulls us close and kisses us on the cheek, and we spend the next half an hour trying to get the makeup off of our faces. We go find a place to eat dessert, then walk back to our houses and go to bed.
The next day we meet at the school at 7 because we have an excursion to a town in the north, where we will be watching a local fiesta. After a 4 hour car ride, we end up in a very small town that has vendors on all the streets, a place where there were mini-carnival rides for the kids, and a church adorned with colorful decorations. We walk into this store, which through a door actually becomes a house, and sit down at a table, waiting to find out what we were doing next. Suddenly a short, friendly woman comes out, jabbering away in spanish, with a 5 gallon gasoline tank in her hand. And she starts filling up cups with the gasoline. Soon we find out it's NOT actually gasoline, but an alcoholic drink. "It will cure anything!" She says as she hands out the cups to us all. We look nervously at the liquid... this is from a gasoline tank. We could die. But not wanting to be disrespectful we reluctantly raise the drink to our mouths and taste it, and surprisingly it's not that bad! Not hint of gasoline! Next we are shown to our rooms... Alli, Charlotte, Olivia and I are sharing a room with two queen beds. Two queen beds that are about 2 inches apart from each other, we soon find out. Nice...
Next we go out and walk around the town, which probably consists of 5 streets. There were people selling things everywhere. This festival has been planned a year in advance. One of the wealthier families of the town volunteer to be the Mayordomo, and throughout the year, the Mayordomo is in charge of cleaning the church, making offerings, and planning for this fiesta. This fiesta celebrates "El Senor de Perdon." In other words, Jesus Christ. Pilgrims come from all over the state to attend. ALL DAY there are fireworks going off, but only the kind that make super loud noises; we were all randomly jumping because of them throughout the entire day, making us look even cooler than we alread did.
We go and see the place where the women are making the food for the celebration... These women have been working for a month before this festival to make the food, and a WEEK before, the start cooking 24/7. But not the kind of cooking we have in the US, obviously. They use these HUGE ceramic pots over fires to make the food... there were about 8 of them in the cooking area, and 40 women working on this project. We walk in and start chatting with the Mayordomos wife, who talks to us about the process of cooking all the food. As we're standing there, the smoke from the fire really starts getting to my eyes; they're watering and I'm continually blinking to stop the pain. Suddenly I look up and there are these two indigenous women sitting next to a pot, watching me, and giggling to themselves. I see them and start laughing too, apologetically, and they just giggle a bit more and make sympathetic gestures my way. I missed most of the Wife's talk, because of this particular distraction.
After this, it's time for Mass, which is held outside of the church. Its hot and we're all sweating, but we have to stand and listen, respectfully. The priest is going on in spanish about Jesus and his importance, and people would randomly say things in unison, which is usual in a catholic mass. I'm just distracted by all the decorations that are hanging in the trees and on the church. I look over at the group, and Charlotte is saying that she feels dizzy, so her and Alli start walking away when suddenly Charlotte is falling, and Alli quickly reaches out to catch her. There was some confusion just then when we realized that Charlotte had fainted. This man gets up and gives her his chair, and this woman starts fanning her off, and our teachers are asking her whats wrong, and Alli is getting her water. After about 10 minutes of this, she says that she feels better and they send her off to rest. Later she says that she didn't remember anything after she said she was dizzy. We were all a little unsettled, and our profesora rushes us off to the shade and to eat, before another one of us drops.
We spend a little time watching the basketball game after lunch (one team totally dominated the other), and this guy came up and asked if he could get a picture with one of us. Abby said no. Alli said no. I said, well, what the hell. Why not. Thats a brave thing to ask of the white foreigners. So one of his little friends came over and took a picture of the two of us, which made me feel a little bit like a celebrity. After the game we went to rest in our rooms, and I could NOT SLEEP because there was a MASSIVE wasp in our room, flying around the window, right over where I was supposed to be sleeping! I usually don't get all that freaked out about bees in general, but seriously this was like 2 inches long. I opened the window and just kept PRAYING that it would fly through it, but NO, the wasp was stupid and kept flying away from it. Please please please stupid huge wasp thing, GO OUT THE WINDOW. I kept twitching every time it would fly, and I'm sure Livey was just SUPER annoyed with me because I kept moving the bed. Finally, after probably a half an hour of me being extremely paranoid, it flew out the window and I slammed it shut, unfortunately waking up the girls sleeping in the room.
After our nap we went and had interviews with some of the people who lived there, then went and watched the procession through the city, which was the most somber experience of the festival. It was getting dark, and we were waiting alongside one of the roads for the procession to pass. They came slowly, each representative of the surrounding towns holding a banner made of cloth, with an image of Jesus on it. The Priest was singing a really slow, almost creepy tune into a microphone, projecting it all up and down the street. There was a huge crowd walking with these banners and statues of Jesus, some of them were holding candles, and all of them were singing with the Priest. It was the most serious I'd seen these people all day. We quitely watched them slowly come, and then slowly continue down the road. We then walked off and had dinner basically in this womans house, there was just a big table in the first room we walked into. They brought us quesadillas and these thick tortillas with beans and cheese on them... they made them right outside of their house and they were really good! They also didn't accept any payment, as it was a festival and it was in the act of giving.
Later that night we were waiting for the fireworks to start, and these guys shoved beer into mine and Olivias hands... Livey was freaked out, but I thought it was great! Seriously all the people I've met here are generally friendly and nice people. Everyone then gathered in front of the church to watch the fireworks which were AMAZING. They started out by lighting them off right above our heads, which I didn't think was even ALLOWED in the world, but nothing caught on fire so maybe they have something right. Then they brought out this big wheel thing, hooked it up to this stand, and lit the fireworks. The fireworks were attached to the wheel, and they lit up an image; a horse, lilies, a dolphin, etc. Random images. Then the fireworks were positioned on the sides of the wheel so that it would spin in circles. So this went on for awhile, switching between exploding fire over our heads, to spinning fire on the ground, and then the FINALE started; a huge tower filled with these spinning image wheels. At the end, there was the biggest wheel of all, with an image of Jesus on it. Then at the very top of the tower, there was this image of what Abby and I thought was ice cream, which seemed very weird but not that crazy... It wiggled with the fireworks, and then suddenly BANG!! The ice cream image shot off of the top of the tower, made a huge arc, and then landed somewhere among the vendors. Everyone cheered. "OMG flying ice cream!!" Me and Abby shouted. "Guys. Thats supposed to be Communion." Alli said. Oh... Oops.
We go to bed and seriously the party doesn't stop until around 4 in the morning... the music is playing all night, and dogs decide it's fun to bark at it. We get up the next day and basicall put on the same clothes we were wearing the day before, we're all disgusting and dirty from everything, and all we want to do is get home, but no. We have to go look at a museum. Which was fine except for none of us were really listening because we were so tired and spanished-out. We drive home the 4 hours it takes to get there, and I walk into my house, take a shower, eat la comida, and then pass out for about 2 hours. Then we go out dancing, which is always an adventure in itself, meeting new people, the bartender giving me a free shot because he knows Beau, having the boys we're dancing with buy us beers... I always bum of the ones who get a little more hands-on than I'd prefer to my friends who DON'T have boyfriends waiting for them at home. It's weird dancing with people who aren't my boyfriend, and sometimes I feel bad about it, but Tyler says that I should have fun... just be careful. And I always AM. I choose the boys who dance NICE and fun, not the over-exhuberant ones, haha.
Tyler pointed out today that I seem very conflicted in my feelings about Oaxaca. Some days I'm just simply loving it and am excited to go out, others I'm stressed and having a bad day. I'm in a routine here, it's not like I'm on a vacation where I'm supposed to have fun all the time. It's hard work, but I'm living real life, not a tourist life. And real life always has the ups and downs, especially when you're separated from the ones you love.